Achieving Dewy Skin in Oil-Based Formulations

Gold Standard Hydration for Oil-Based Formulations: PrimalHyal™ Gold

Imagine you’re tasked with designing a skincare product that not only hydrates but does so with elegance and precision. You might reach for hyaluronic acid (HA), a molecule hailed for its remarkable ability to retain water—up to 1,000 times its weight. However, the world of cosmetic formulation often demands more than what conventional water-soluble HA can provide. Enter PrimalHyal™ Gold, Givaudan Active Beauty’s pioneering solution, merging the science of hydration with the art of formulation.

The Challenge of Hydration in Oil-Based Formulations

Hyaluronic acid has long been a champion of hydration, working tirelessly to maintain skin’s water balance and elasticity. But its inherent water solubility has posed a persistent challenge for cosmetic formulators seeking to leverage its benefits in anhydrous systems like oils, powders, and solid cosmetics.

The team at Givaudan saw this limitation as an opportunity. Through a meticulous biofermentation process—what they call “white technology”—they crafted PrimalHyal™ Gold. This oil-soluble microemulsion form of HA shatters conventional boundaries, bringing hydration into realms where it was once thought impossible.

Redefining Hydration at the Molecular Level

PrimalHyal™ Gold is engineered with a specific molecular weight (<50 kDa) that allows it to penetrate deep into the skin, reaching the dermis layer. This feat is validated by Raman spectroscopy, a precise tool that tracks molecular markers as they navigate through the skin. Results from ex vivo studies reveal that this micro-emulsified HA can penetrate up to 120 micrometers below the skin’s surface.

Instant and Sustained Hydration

In a controlled study, a lipstick formulation containing 4% PrimalHyal™ Gold was applied to human skin explants. After just 30 minutes, hydration levels surged by 45% compared to baseline measurements. Remarkably, this effect persisted, maintaining a 50% increase in free water content even after eight hours—a significant improvement over traditional formulations, which lose efficacy within the same period.

This dual-action benefit—both immediate and long-lasting—sets PrimalHyal™ Gold apart in a market crowded with short-term solutions.

Formulating Without Boundaries

PrimalHyal™ Gold opens a new frontier for formulators. It integrates seamlessly into oil-based systems, enabling its use in diverse product categories:

• Pressed Powders: Creating a foundation that hydrates as it mattifies.
• Body Oils: Luxurious formulations that nourish and soften.
• Lipsticks and Balms: Providing hydration without compromising on color and texture.
• Anhydrous Serums and Sun Care Products: Where water content is minimal or nonexistent.

The recommended dosage ranges from 4-5%, and the microemulsion remains stable at processing temperatures below 85°C, ensuring compatibility with a wide array of cosmetic bases.

Beyond its functional excellence, PrimalHyal™ Gold aligns with modern sustainability goals. Produced using natural raw materials such as wheat and glucose, the process leverages biofermentation to minimize environmental impact. This commitment ensures that while the molecule works wonders on your skin, its creation treads lightly on the planet.

The Future of Hydration

Innovation is not just about introducing new ingredients; it’s about pushing the boundaries of what existing ones can achieve. PrimalHyal™ Gold embodies this spirit of innovation by transforming hyaluronic acid—a staple in hydration science—into a versatile powerhouse suitable for oil-based and anhydrous formulations. This breakthrough challenges the conventional constraints of hydrating actives, unlocking their potential across a broader spectrum of product categories.

PrimalHyal™ Gold invites you to reimagine the role of hyaluronic acid in skincare, pushing creative boundaries to develop products that meet and exceed the evolving needs of today’s consumers.